This past weekend, I took a road trip with my partner’s parents to Mexico to check out Baja wine country. Until recently, the only alcohol that I associated with Mexico was Tequila shots (ugh, flashback to my college days) or bottles of Corona (pee in a bottle!). Thankfully, I’ve long grown past that stage of life.
Just two hours south of San Diego or less than a 4 hour drive from Los Angeles (without the border crossing factored in), Valle De Guadalupe, is considered by many top food and wine enthusiasts as “The Next Napa.” But unlike Napa, what you won’t find are the hordes of fanny-pack tourists or massive commercialized wineries.
Alximia – Vino Elemental Winery
Valle De Guadalupe is still a boutique wine region – with most of the wineries producing small batches focused on sustainability practices. The region also has experienced a boom in just the past decade with experienced vintners, dairy farmers producing small batches of cheese and several dozen new luxurious B&B’s and restaurants. On my last trip there, I was told that there are now 150+ wineries where just 10 years ago there were only a dozen or so.
Russian immigrants first settled in the area in the early 20th century and brought the first grapevines with them. There is Bibayoff Vinos where owner David Bibayoff is a descendant of these early trailblazers and has a small museum dedicated to it. But the area has brought in business from all across Mexico and other countries.
At Vena Cava winery, British expats Eileen and Phil Gregory are busy with their dream winery — constructed with reclaimed materials from boats complete with hulls and port windows.
Vena Cava Winery
They also run a 6-room B&B called La Villa del Valle where you’d swear you were transported to Tuscany with its arched walkways and views overlooking vineyards in the valley.
La Villa del Valle – B&B in Mexican wine country, Baja.
Also on site is Corazon de Tierra, a restaurant that you’d expect to find in West Hollywood with its modern design. They also have Troika, a food truck that serves up tostadas and sliders. More on this place in another post. It’s our favorite spot in the valley. What amazes me is the lack of knowledge about this spot. I hate to say hidden gem, but it really is! I imagine it’s something like Sonoma back in the day before all the weekend warrior techies moved to the bay area.
Corazon de Tierra – Restaurant on-site at La Villa del Valle
If you’re imagining cheap-o wine in Mexican wine country, think again. Many of the wineries charge $30+ US dollars a bottle. But the quality is overall very high. If you’re a bit frugal like me, deals can be found. At LA Cetto, one of the larger producers in the region, there is a range of wines that cost as low as $6 bucks a bottle. So cheers and drink up!
Gourmet Globetrotter Recommendations:
Where to stay:
La Villa del Valle – room rates are $225 US dollars weekdays and $245 US dollars weekends.
**One thing to note, the road to the B&B is rough. I recommend taking a reliable car to navigate all the pot holes. You’ll rattle a good 10 minutes up the road!
Best Wineries:
Vena Cava – included if you stay at La Villa del Valle, and located on the property. Closes around 5 PM. Email for reservations: info@venacavawine.com
AlXimia Vino Elemental – feels like boarding a spaceship and easy to visit. Hours: 10:30AM–5:30PM
**Remember you must declare any alcohol at the border. One liter of alcohol per person may be entered into the U.S. duty-free by travelers who are 21 or older
Unique Foodie Stop:
Corazon De Tierra – makes it easy if you’re staying at the B&B. Also located right on-site. Meals run about $50 US dollars per person without drinks. Open 1:30-4:30 and dinner from 6:30-8:30 PM. Closed Tuesdays.
Troika – An alternative if you’re looking for a cheaper meal. This is a food truck located on site at La Villa del Valle. Hours 1-8 PM. Closed on Mondays.
Off the Beaten Path:
Rancho Cortés Dairy Farm (cheese and olive oil tastings) – We just showed up and paid about $3 US dollars per person to sample the cheese. Look out for the cows roaming about. The farm can be accessed at the intersection for El Porvenir and Ensenada, turn left into Rancho Cortes and follow the “QUESOS” (cheeses) signs. Remember – you can take as much olive oil across the border, but cheese is limited to 5 kg (11 lbs.). That’s a lot of queso!
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