We made it to Marfa, Texas! Never heard of it? Well, you’re definitely not alone. I can’t tell you how many people asked, “Who is Marta?” And probably wondered why we were visiting her in Texas.
Marfa (not MARTA!) has long been on list of places to check out ever since I heard a story back in 2012 while zoning out and listening to NPR’s “Morning Edition.” The reporter described an unlikely art oasis in the desert – complete with vegan eateries, a thriving contemporary art scene and Brooklyn hipsters who were sick and tired of city life and all the people (Marfa is just under 2,000 people). More recently, Beyonce visited Marfa, which made me think… Well, if Marfa is good enough for the ‘Queen Bey,’ it’s good enough for me!
One of Marfa’s quirky restaurants on the outskirts of town called “Buns and Roses”
But first you need to know how to get here. And it isn’t easy. It will likely involve a flight into El Paso — the nearest city to Marfa, where you’ll then have to rent a car and drive 3 hours east through the wide-open dusty Texas desert. We spent no time in El Paso, but it didn’t look like we missed much.
Getting to Marfa takes time and patience – with the closest city being El Paso, a 3-hour drive away!
People who visit Marfa are on a mission. It’s a pilgrimage of sorts attracting more and more people — like us — who aren’t really big art followers but want to experience it’s quirky charm. And oh, it definitely has a lot of quirk! My advice is to book early as possible because word is getting out. I tried booking a hotel in Marfa nearly 2 months in advance and there were no more rooms available, forcing us to stay 30 minutes East in the college town of Alpine (not a bad alternative and where they actually filmed part of the Oscar-winning movie Boyhood).
Here are some of the places you won’t want to miss while in Marfa.
What to see:
Chinati Foundation
One of the giant artillery sheds housing contemporary artist Donald Judd’s aluminum cubes
This is what pretty much put Marfa on the artistic map. The Chianti Foundation was founded by minimalist artist Donald Judd who came to Marfa in the 1970s to escape the confines of New York City. While Judd is no longer alive, his artistic dreams carry on and today you can visit his compound on a tour. The museum is located on a former military fort reimagined with an artistic eye.
Kevin and I signed up for one of the 2-hour walking tour with 18 other visitors, who looked like they could have been type cast as extras in HBO’s Girls. I wish we would have hit up the thrift store for some skinny jeans and donned a wide-brimmed hat. Our polo shirts and khaki shorts just didn’t cut it!
Kevin feels like he somehow got trapped in an episode of HBO’s Girls.
Our first stop was inside one of two massive artillery sheds, housing Judd’s works in aluminum sculptures. Our guide informed us that no photos are allowed at any point (about 10 times) to avoid the trappings of modern-day technology and simply enjoy the art. That lasted all about 20 minutes, until a Lena Dunham look-alike couldn’t help snapping a selfie! The artillery shed now artist space was remodeled with glass windows all along the walls, allowing natural sunlight to reflect off the aluminum boxes inside. Or as we witnessed, massacre unsuspecting birds that smacked into the windows no less than about 5 times we were in the building!
Inside the Chinati Foundation’s main hall – beautiful landscapes can be seen through the glass windows
We aren’t huge art gallery lovers – in fact, Kevin usually falls fast asleep in most museums. But the tour went fast, plus it’s a ton of walking. Also located on the Chianti grounds is a sprawling 12-building complex featuring artist Dan Flavin known for his colorful fluorescent light bulbs. I mean, if only I thought of that as my artistic skill!
I’m having way too much fun in front of the Dan Flavin florescent light exhibit
Be sure to book early, these tours fill up fast especially on the weekend. The cost is $20 per person for the 2 hour tour. They also offer a full day tour from 10 am – 4 pm. I guess if you’re a massive art lover and have the time. The 2-hour tour was just perfect for us. Book tours directly by clicking here.
Prada Marfa
The photo we’ve been waiting for – the Prada in the middle of nowhere!
If you’ve seen any photos from Marfa, more than likely this is the place! Is it a real Prada store? Did you go shopping? Those were the two main questions people asked when I got back. Unfortunately, the doors are always locked but I was told the items inside are actually real Prada. A guy in town also told me there is always someone watching via a video camera. So hold back your urge to be a Prada thief!
I recommend you time your visit here as you enter Marfa from El Paso, or on your way back. Otherwise, it’s a 45 minute drive from downtown Marfa. Save yourself the time and gas! It’s a quick stop because there is nothing, I mean NOTHING out here besides this fake Prada store. But think of it this way, it will be your cheapest trip to Prada, EVER!
The doors are locked to Prada, making it the cheapest trip to Prada ever!
Marfa Ballroom
In Marfa proper, there are dozens of art galleries. You can wander from one to the next. Though, if you’re a traditionalist, chances are you won’t be buying much. I mean, the art galleries are definitely for the more modern taste. You won’t find any water lily paintings or landscape shots of snowy mountains. Marfa Ballroom is one of the best galleries in town — they’re the people behind the Prada shop on the edge of town. They also have rotating artists on display with their latest exhibit called “Dengue Fever.” Now, that sounds like an uplifting portrait to hang in the dining room!
Marfa Lights Viewing Platform
Another must-do spot on the outskirts of town. Besides its art, Marfa is known for it’s weird glowing orbs that appear on the edge of town.
Kevin jokingly points to the field not ever expecting to see any lights
According to the locals, it’s a pretty rare spectacle to witness — happening maybe 15 times a year. There is a viewing platform about 20 minutes east of Marfa along the way to Alpine, Texas. The spot is incredibly relaxing with binoculars and benches for visitors to set up and scan the skies. Kevin was a skeptic (though I held off from telling him how infrequent these things showed up). I also brought a book and figured if we showed up around sunset, at least we’d get some nice pictures of the sun going down. And then I saw a flash. And then the light zoomed across the horizon. I (embarrassingly) screamed out, “Kevin, get over here — I see the lights!” And what a show it was – with red lights, white orbs and others blinking all over the distant mountain.
It’s a little blurry, but one of the many orbs that appeared on the edge of town, taken through the binoculars
Was it aliens? Fireworks? Or simply a busy weekend and the Marfa tourism board satisfying all us weirdos hanging out looking for lights? Who knows, but it felt pretty gratifying to actually see it!
Hotel Paisano Lobby (Giant Memorabilia)
This is such a fantastic place to relax — with couches, hotel bar and a grand fountain in the courtyard. But my favorite part was seeing all the photos and memorabilia from the great classic film Giant, which brought James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and Dennis Hopper here in 1955 to film what was then the most expensive movie ever made. Marfa also has brought in other film productions including two Oscar winners, No Country For Old Men and There Will Be Blood.
Inside the Hotel Paisano lobby, you’ll find photos and memorabilia from the classic movie Giant
Autographs and photos from Giant
Where to Eat:
Eating is generally something you don’t have to worry about on most trips. However, in Marfa it is not only difficult but one of the weirdest things about this town. You’ll find plenty of food trucks – but like many of the businesses, they run out of food. Or just decide to close without warning. Like their artist friends, they seem to work when they feel like it. We loved the late-night dining spot called, the Museum of Electronic Wonder & Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour.
Inside the late-night restaurant known as the Museum of Electronic Wonder and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlor
We showed up at 9:30 PM, right around opening time but they already ran out of food and said they could only make a plain grilled cheese. Fine. But then they also added, “it will take about 45 minutes.” For a grilled cheese!? Welcome to Marfa.
If you’re looking for something a little higher end, head straight to Cochineal. We called to get a reservation and they sounded overwhelmed. We eventually negotiated bar seating as soon as they opened. The pace in Marfa is not New York or LA speed. We ordered an entre and one desert, which took about 3 hours total! Despite all the issues, Cochineal is the best meal in town. Trust us, you’ll be sick of battling for food at the trucks by the end of your stay.
Best meal in Marfa, at the bar top at Cochineal – make reservations in advance!
Lastly, another fun spot to see the locals is at Planet Marfa. Inside is a giant teepee, live bands, a school bus you can eat inside and cowboys mixed with artists.
One of the places you can sit down and eat in the restaurant Planet Marfa – you can eat and pretend to drive a bus!
Where to Stay:
Hotel Paisano
Hotel Paisano would be our first choice if staying in Marfa. For any hotel in Marfa, my advice is book early as possible. Like 6 months ahead – it’s that busy during the peek tourist season (basically anytime that isn’t the winter months). Hotel Paisano is right in the heart of Marfa’s low-key action. The actual rooms are a little outdated, but the hotel lobby and restaurant are an oasis in this artsy, eclectic town. Rooms start at $150.
Relaxing courtyard in front of the Hotel Paisano
St. George Hotel
St. George Hotel is the newest hotel on the block. This is their first high-end property. It’s totally mod, so if you’re a traditionalist it might not be your place. The lobby has a lively bar and even a book store. But if you’re looking for Tom Clancy or a Nora Roberts paperback, you’re probably out of luck. But you’ll be able to find a whole section dedicated to postmodern feminist theory!
Kevin peruses the lobby of the St. George Hotel
The indie bookstore located in the Hotel St. George. Don’t even think about asking for Fifty Shades of Grey!
Holland Hotel
Okay, the Holland Hotel is not in Marfa. We stayed here because Marfa was completely booked 2 months out! The Holland Hotel is located 30 minutes East of Marfa in Alpine. They have a few good coffee shops and several art galleries. In fact, we bought some art from the Co-Op Art Gallery just a few doors down. Rates start at $125 a night. Skip the restaurant though since most locals warned us it’s not the place to eat (even with the voucher they often give for $50 off).
The historic Holland Hotel in Alpine, Texas, located 30 minutes East of Marfa
Inside the room at the Harrison Hotel – a fantastic place to be based
Alpine is like the serious, straight-laced sister to Marfa. If Marfa was the renegade artist in the family, Alpine is the equivalent of the accountant. We loved it though! And the art was much more our speed.
One of the art galleries in downtown Alpine – I have a ceramic bowl obsession and couldn’t pass this up!
Finally, Alpine is along the way to Big Bend National Park. So staying here will put you that much closer to one of the least visited parks in the US. Stay tuned for the next post about our road trip to Big Bend!
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