When starting this blog a few years back, Kevin and I quickly discovered that one of our favorite things about living in LA is going on road trip adventures — without ever actually leaving the city. We’ve done foodie adventures in LA’s Little India, spent a day exploring LA’s Little Tokyo and taken ‘staycations’ in downtown LA. For our latest road trip in LA, we visited Boyle Heights. It’s a neighborhood that we didn’t really know much about — beyond its famed Mariachi Plaza, where you’ll find some of the best mariachis in Los Angeles.
Mariachis in LA, in Mariachi Plaza, Boyle Heights.
We put together a guide to Boyle Heights including some of the best shops and bakeries. And we’ll take you along our 3.5 hour walking tour where we learned how Boyle Heights became known as the “Ellis Island of the West.”
Mariachi Plaza: For the Best Mariachis in Los Angeles
Since the 1930s, mariachi musicians have gathered in Boyle Height’s Mariachi Plaza in the hopes of finding a gig. Today, you’ll still see musicians strolling around the plaza — from full-sized bands to solo singers. Mariachi derived from western Mexico in the 18th century and has been a strong staple of Mexican culture. But why are there so many mariachi bands in this part of the city? It’s mostly due to the historic Boyle Hotel, located across from the plaza where many mariachi rented rooms and could stroll out to the plaza to be hired.
Standing in the plaza in front of the Boyle Hotel.
The latest plan is to remake the plaza into a modern shopping center with a garage. This has many in the community worried that this unique cultural center could be completely wiped out. Right now, the small kiosk at the center of the plaza will remain. This spot was donated by the Mexican state of Jalisco, the birthplace of mariachi music, and where many groups still meet today. It is also where we met up for our 3.5 hour walking tour, led by Boyle Heights native Shmuel Gonzales.
A Walking Tour: Learning More about Boyle Heights Jewish Roots
Joining our walking tour with Shmuel Gonzales, to learn about Boyle Height’s rich past.
Today, Boyle Heights is most associated with its large Mexican American population. But this wasn’t always the case. Tour guide and historian Shmuel Gonzales shares his unique perspective on his 3.5 hour walking tour. You’ll hear personal stories as well as how the neighborhood is a melting pot, with a sizable Japanese and Jewish population. Throughout the 1920s and ’30s, about forty percent of the population in Boyle Heights was Jewish. The core of the community was Brooklyn Avenue, renamed Cesar E. Chavez Avenue, and home to many Jewish-owned businesses. One of our favorite spots we got to see was the Craftsman home of Max Factor, whose cosmetics company was a favorite among Hollywood studios and celebrities.
Checking out the craftsman home of Max Factor, famed Hollywood cosmetic businessman.
Kevin and I were surprised at just how many hidden gems there are in Boyle Heights such as Hollenbeck Park. The Laurel and Hardy film Men O’ War was filmed here in the 1920s — when boats were still available for rent. But as LA’s urban sprawl — and extensive freeway system took over in the 1950s — the park was overtaken by a freeway overpass. In fact, Boyle Height’s was nearly wiped away — with many freeway exits built to completely bypass the neighborhood. Between 1945-1965, five freeways were constructed here, destroying around 17,000 housing units.
Hollenbeck Park in Boyle Heights with the freeway overpass right over the man-made lake.
The tour covers a lot of ground. The last spots that Shmuel showed us was gorgeous and spooky all at once — the Linda Vista Community Hospital. If it looks familiar, you’ve likely seen it on such TV shows as ER, Buffy the Vampire Slayer and movies like Outbreak and LA Confidential. The hospital was built for railroad employees and was one of four employee hospitals run by the railroad Santa Fe Employees Hospital Association.
Linda Vista Community Hospital.
The place was about to be demolished. But the National Register for Historic Places came in and saved the building from destruction. Today, the building is being put to good use as an apartment complex for fixed-income senior citizens. And as for it being haunted? Well, apparently there are occasional screams and bumps in the night. But for that, you’ll have to take one of Boyle Heights Heritage’s ghost walking tours.
IF YOU GO:
- Boyle Heights Heritage offers a variety of history and heritage tours.
- We joined the Boyle Heights Heritage Tour, held on Sunday from 12:00-3:30 PM.
- Cost: $25 per person
- To make a booking, visit the tour’s website directly and book on Eventbrite.
A Guide to Boyle Heights: Must-See Stops in the Neighborhood
Libros Schmibros in Boyle Heights
After the tour, we recommend heading to check out Libros Schmibros, located across from Mariachi Plaza. It is a lending library dedicated to putting low-or no-cost books into the hands of all Angelenos. But this is no bookstore. Anyone who visits can get a book for free.
If you’re hungry, we recommend walking just a few steps away to La Monarca Bakery. The founders of this LA-based chain created it to bring the flavors of Mexico to the United States. The bakery has been recognized as one of the best by LA Weekly, Sunset Magazine and LA Times and many others including your favorite food bloggers at Gourmet Globetrotter. Like your typical panaderia, La Monarca has piles of Pan Dulce (sweet bread) — but they also offer vegan options. Our top recommendation? Grab a slice of the strawberry cake and a cup of Cafe De Olla, a traditional Mexican coffee sweetened with cinnamon and brown sugar. You can get a seat right in the front window to watch the mariachi musicians stroll by.
Clearly, I like taking pictures of baked goods!
Cake and coffee. Does it get any better?
A Must-Visit Shop, Just Off Mariachi Plaza
To wrap up your day in Boyle Heights, we suggest your last stop should be at Espacio 1839. Is it an art gallery? A boutique clothing store? A radio station? Well guess what? It’s all of the above! Journalist Marco Amador brought together three other eastside entrepreneurs to form a collective for the community focused on cultural awareness and activism through art, books, fashion and music. Many of the products tout timely messages on social justice and political movements. You’ll also find plenty of clothing to sport some Boyle Heights pride.
Some of the goods inside Espacio 1839.
And there you have it! Kevin and I definitely recommend making your next road trip adventure to Boyle Heights. You can easily spend an entire day here and not even need your car. I know, in LA. Shocker! Looking for other recommendations on unique things to do in LA? Be sure to check out our recommended visit to the Arts District’s Lost Spirits Distillery, aka the Willy Wonka of booze. For our full coverage of LA, check out our link here.
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