Kevin and I have visited New York City countless times — doing the typical things like eating our way through Chinatown and taking in a Broadway show. We’ve also done plenty of walking tours covering everything from architecture to food. And of course, as a former NBC Page nearly 2 decades ago (not to totally date myself!), I literally gave hundreds of tours while channeling my inner ‘Kenneth the page’ from 30 Rock.
However on our latest trip to New York, I wanted to do something a little more meaningful. As soon as I came across Christopher Street Tours’ signature LGBTQ Pride Walking Tour through Greenwich Village, I knew it was something we’d love to learn more about.
What Makes This Walking Tour One of the Best Things to do in Greenwich Village?
Christopher Street Tours, founded and led by Michael Venturiello, is easily one of the best things to do in Greenwich Village for a good reason. Michael is a walking encyclopedia on LGBT history, even writing his thesis on the Stonewall uprising while earning a Masters. Plus, he was able to answer ALL of Kevin’s questions. Now that’s a skill I’ve yet to accomplish!
No trip through NYC’s LGBT history would be complete without a visit to the Stonewall Inn.
It’s easy to forget just how much progress has been made in the LGBT movement in the last decade — from members of the military serving openly to marriage equality. And if that wasn’t enough, this year also marked the 50th anniversary of the uprising at the Stonewall Inn, sparking what most historians see as the beginning of the modern LGBT rights movement.
So follow our journey along their signature 2 hour walking tour, covering about 1 mile. The tour will fly by as you learn about the roller coaster ride of the LGBT movement from its infancy to present day.
STOP #1: Checking Out the Oldest Gay Bar in New York (And No It Isn’t Stonewall)
Kevin has plenty of questions. Hope the rest of our tour is ready for it!
Sure, everyone knows Stonewall. But what about Julius’? This place has been around since 1840, first as a grocery store and then, in 1864 as a bar. During Prohibition, it was a popular speakeasy for many jazz and literary legends of the era. It attracted a gay clientele in the 1950’s. While prohibition was long gone, openly LGBT folks weren’t permitted to drink. Fast forward to 1966, when four members of the Mattachine Society, staged the infamous “sip in” incident at Julius that challenged the regulations that prohibited serving homosexuals.
The iconic photo of the bartender at Julius who covered the drink after four men admitted they were gay.
The iconic picture was one of the first PR wins for the movement — showing the injustices of the queer community. However, unlike Stonewall, this was a quiet protest.
If you watch the TV show Pose, the bar may look familiar. It was in a scene where the lead character Blanca was denied service for being an African American trans woman. Michael explained that while it wasn’t too common in the 80’s, that sort of thing did still happen. This is what led to the thriving ‘ball culture’ scene in New York as depicted in Pose. We knew Julius looked familiar despite it being called Boys Lounge in the episode! I’m pretty sure that Kevin let out a “woot woot” after guessing… And maybe SLIGHTLY freaking out our fellow tour goers. Clearly, it doesn’t take much to get us excited!
Stop #2: Tracing the History of the Infamous Women’s House of Detention
Site of the House of Detention
The Jefferson Market Courthouse is a place of legend in New York. Greenwich Village was out in the boonies — all farmlands, if you could believe it today. The courthouse connected via an underground tunnel to the very creepy-sounding House of Detention. Why an underground tunnel? According to Michael, it was to keep the public from knowing just how awful the conditions were for the women prisoners inside. Think of it as something out of Netflix’s Orange is the New Black.
Michael points out the House of Detention, which is a garden today. However, the courthouse still remains (the clock tower building)
So why is it on the tour? Well, in 1967, social worker Sara Harris published the tell-all book titled, Hellhole: The Shocking Story of the Inmates and Life in the New York City House of Detention for Women which detailed the deplorable conditions as well as interviews with the inmates. Her book revealed that not only were the conditions terrible inside, but the prisoners were nearly all women of color and targeted based on sexuality and race. The place was eventually closed permanently in the early 1970’s and demolished shortly thereafter.
Stop #3: Strolling Down The Village’s Gay Street
Anyone who’s ever strolled along Christopher Street in The Village has seen the sign for Gay St. Ironically, it is named for one of the original land owners (his last name was Gay). The village, and this street in particular, became a beacon in the 1950’s-1960’s for all those who considered themselves as bohemians. Or in other words, those who didn’t quite fit into the social norms of the times like in Leave it to Beaver.
We paused at this spot and took photos of the new sign, which is a colorful display of inclusivity. And if the alley looks familiar, you might have seen it on TV. It’s a popular film and movie shooting location, and was prominently featured in Cyndi Lauper’s music video Girls Just Wanna Have Fun.
Stop #4: Taking in The Stonewall Inn
Stonewall Inn, now as much of a tourist site as a bar.
There have been movies, books, stage productions — you name it. The Stonewall Inn is home to the infamous uprising during the early hours of June 28, 1969 when New York City police officers raided the place. It was a catalyst for the LGBT movement in the US and around the world — when roughly 2,000 people came out and protested for 6 nights. Wait, 6 nights? Yes, you read that correctly. We had no idea it went on that long. I imagined a several hour affair here.
Unlike Julius, only blocks away, Stonewall was a place where anyone was welcome — as long as you could pay the entry fee. But it wasn’t all glam. The place was dirty — with no fresh, running water. Meaning, all the glasses were washed in re-used water over and over. Could you imagine how that would go over today?
Getting a rundown on the key figures in the Stonewall Uprising.
Since the uprising, the place has opened and closed often. But in 1992, Stonewall once again was open for business as a bar. While it’s still considered a dive, it’s a major improvement from when the mafia was in control. The mob owned just about all the gay bars in NYC since it was basically a cash machine. And police were paid off to ignore the place. But it was sometime in the 60’s when police stopped taking the money and decided to crack down. When the raid happened, police never expected any resistance. Today the stories are legendary such as those about transgender activist Marsha P. Johnson, hailed as throwing the first brick that sparked the riots. Clearly, no trip to The Village is complete without a stop here.
Stop #5: Finding Peace Inside Christopher Park
Families and tourists gather inside Christopher Park, just across the street from the Stonewall Inn.
We followed Michael across the street to take in the view of Stonewall. He explained how the movement shifted in the 1970’s, including a resolution stating that homosexuality was not a mental illness or sickness. At the northern end of the park, he pointed out an art installation that commemorates the Stonewall riots and features four figures (2 standing men and 2 seated women).
The sculpture was commissioned in 1979 (on the 10th anniversary of the Stonewall incident). The main requirement was that it was inclusive of love, care and affection. Fun Jeopardy! fact — it became the first U.S. National Monument dedicated to LGBT rights when completed in 1980.
Stop #6: Once a Hospital, Now a Condo: The Site of St. Vincent Memorial Hospital
If you’ve seen Angels in America, Pose or just about any movie or TV show set in the 1980’s with LGBT characters, you’ve seen St. Vincent Hospital. It was one of the only hospitals in the 80’s that admitted HIV-positive patients. After suffering financial problems, the hospital closed down. And in true gentrification form, it is now as a high-end condo. Though, something tells me their new brochures don’t mention the countless lives lost during the AIDS crisis. Just across the street, though, is a gorgeous park.
We followed Michael to the AIDS memorial in the back of the park.
Newly erected AIDS memorial, inside the park across from St. Vincent.
It’s a peaceful spot in the craziness of New York. A poem by Walt Whitman spirals the pavement inside. However, you’ll have a hard time figuring out where it begins and ends. This was intentional — as a representation of the AIDS epidemic.
Final Stop: Taking in the LGBT Center of New York
Where did our afternoon go? We walked a short distance from the park to check out the massive LGBT community center. This is one of the most active centers in the country, standing 3 stories high and averaging 6,000 visitors a week.
Inside the hallways of the LGBT Center in New York’s Greenwich Village.
Today, more than 400 community groups come here to meet and find support — including health and wellness programs; arts, entertainment and cultural events; recovery, parenthood and family support services. Michael led us to a hidden spot in the center that probably even most native New Yorkers don’t know about. In the building’s second-floor men’s bathroom, artist Keith Haring painted his last public commissioned piece of art.
Haring was 31 years old when he created the provocative piece. He died shortly after from AIDS-related complications. The painting includes his signature black and white squiggly lines like seen in his most famous street art. And even more remarkable, it’s completely free to come in and check it out.
Kevin checks out the somewhat NSFW artwork!
Well, there you have it. What a journey. And who knew 2 hours could go by so quickly? The main goal of Christopher Street Tours is to share information and knowledge with the greater community — a space where we can all learn from each other. Kevin and I walked away with so much insight. In fact, Michael asked whether we had any questions at the end. After a brief pause, Kevin looked in my direction with disbelief as he said “no?” Clearly, now that’s a sign of a thorough tour!
With our friendly guide Michael (left) who left no question unanswered.
THE LOWDOWN:
- Christopher Street Tours specialize in walking tours, year-round, covering a wide spectrum of LGBT history.
- Their signature LGBTQ History Walking Tour lasts approximately 2 hours and covers about 1 mile of the Greenwich Village.
- Tours run year-round and begin at the corner of McCarthy Square, and end at the LGBT Center (where you can explore further after the tour wraps).
- Tours are $30 per adult.
- One very cool offer is that Christopher Street Tours has a mission to educate youth on LGBT history. For any youth under 21 years old, they offer free tours. You just need to contact them in advance for a free registration code.
No Comments, Be The First!